Planting The Garden! The Sunday Farm Update

A Celebrity tomato plant stands ready to grow after being planted this past week.

A Celebrity tomato plant stands ready to grow after being planted this past week.

It is always one of our favorite weeks of the year…the planting of our garden!

Winter had a final stand last Sunday and Monday night with one last frost at the farm.  By Wednesday however, the temperatures quickly rose into the 70 and 80′s – and the threat of cold weather became a distant memory.  It was finally time to get the full garden planted!

It doesn’t take long for us to get the plants in with the raised row system, and with a few hours of work each evening on Thursday and Friday – the 2013 Garden Plan came to life.  All in all, over 140 plants went into the ground – including 40 tomato and peppers plants each, along with rows of cabbage and head lettuce transplants.  We also seeded in multiple rows of green beans, potatoes and onions to go with the early spring crops of radishes, sugar snap peas, lettuce, arugala and carrots already in the ground.  (You can see the entire garden plan at the bottom of the post)

All of the raised rows are planted - we will be heading out today to straw the walking rows.

All of the raised rows are planted – we will be heading out today to straw the walking rows.

We create all of the holes in each row with a post hole digger.  It allows us to quickly have a planting hole that is both deep and wide enough to easily plant in. Next – we add in a shovel full of compost to the hole – and mix back in the existing soil to plant the transplant.

Finally,  we add a thin layer of compost as a top dressing and mulch around each transplant, water them in – and move on to the next plant.

The strawberry plants are off to a good start

The strawberry plants are in and will even give us a small harvest this year.

One of our other goals this year was to get our strawberry and blueberry patches planted.

Over the last few weeks we had turned over and prepared the soil for the patch where the old chicken coop once stood. The soil is rich in nutrients from the chickens over the the last few years, and should provide years of good blueberry and strawberry harvests.

We chose a June bearing variety (Sparkle) for our strawberries. Ever-bearing varieties can provide berries throughout the season, but the June bearing will provide larger and more abundant harvests – which are perfect for canning and preserving.  For the blueberries, we chose three different varieties of bushes – allowing for better pollination and higher yields.

Bringing back pollen to the hive...if you look closely you can see the yellow pollen on the incoming bee

Bringing back pollen to the hive…if you look closely you can see the yellow pollen on the incoming bee

The bees have plenty of fresh blooms to choose from - here the wegelia at the front entrance

The bees have plenty of fresh blooms to choose from – here the wegelia at the front entrance

The chicks are now almost 13 weeks old, and have taken to sunning themselves outside of the coop.

The chicks are now almost 13 weeks old, and have taken to sunning themselves outside of the coop.

The honey bees and our new hive are off to a great start.  The queen has successfully found her way out of her cage, and the bees have begun to diligently bring in pollen at an amazing pace.  It is truly amazing to sit and watch them fly in, one after another, with their bodies and legs covered in the colorful yellow and purple pollen of the surrounding blooms.  It’s a great feeling to know that they are close by to help pollinate our crops – and even better to know that if all continues to go well, we can hope to have our first harvest of our own “local honey” this fall.

The new chicks are likewise off to a great start.  They seem to love their new coop – and have more than doubled in size since moving out  to the farm from the brooder from the house.  They will turn 13 weeks old this Monday – which means we are only 5 to 7 weeks away from them starting to lay.  Our new chicks are all Golden Comets, and most will begin to lay somewhere between weeks 18 and 20. We have been able to let them free range over the entire farm for the last few weeks – but with the garden, strawberry, and blueberry patch areas planted now – we will lay out some large fenced-in grazing areas to keep them from damaging any of the crops.

Here’s to a great start to the growing season!

Happy Gardening – Jim and Mary!

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The 2013 Garden Plan.

The 2013 Garden Plan.

Growing Lettuce – Experience Real Flavor!

Concept - a Summer Crisp lettuce is a great choice to sow in late spring because it can tolerate more heat than most lettuce types

Concept – a Summer Crisp lettuce is a great choice to sow in late spring because it can tolerate more heat than most lettuce types

Lettuce is one of the fastest and easiest to grow crops around.  It can be grown in the garden, in containers and raised beds, or almost anywhere you can clear out a little space.

There are hundreds upon hundreds of varieties available – in a myriad of colors, textures, all with their own unique taste.   In fact, for most that begin to grow their own lettuce – they are shocked to realize the amazing difference in taste from the generic varieties available in most super markets and grocery stores.  Most “supermarket” lettuce, (like the familiar Iceburg head lettuce) are grown specifically for their ability to handle shipping and store well – not for taste.  When you begin to grow your own – you might just find out that with all that flavor – salad dressing isn’t even needed!

The first of the lettuce is through and almost ready for the first picking - this is Summer Crisp

The first of our lettuce is up and through, almost ready for harvest. Pictured if Black Seeded Simpson.

Lettuce can be divided into many categories – but most will agree on these main four  : Butterhead (Bibb style lettuce) , Crisphead (Iceberg, etc.), Looseleaf (Cutting varieties) and Romaine style.

Lettuce in general prefers cooler weather – so you will want to plant a spring/early summer crop, with a second fall crop as well.  The hot summer heat tends to wilt and bolt lettuce.  The good news is that it’s a quick grower, and can actually go from seed to table in as little as three to four weeks!

Preparing The Soil And Planting Lettuce:

Rich, fertile soil is the key to great lettuce.

Rich, fertile soil is the key to great lettuce.

Lettuce prefers loose, fertile, and well-drained soil.  It will struggle to grow well in hard, clay-type soils.  Prepare your beds by adding in lots of compost and organic matter. If your soil is on the clay-type side – you can also add a few shovel-fulls of sand to help loosen the soil structure and aid in drainage.

Lettuce can be planted with transplants or by directly sowing seed into the soil. We prefer planting most of ours by seed, mainly for the convenience, and for us, they have seemed to do better emerging from the soil than they have as transplants.

If your soil is fertile, lettuce will not require much additional care other than keeping it watered throughout dry periods.  Lettuce, like most vegetable crops, should receive about 1″ of water per week.  If you do want to fertilize – an application of compost tea can be applied once the crops have emerged through the ground.

There is so much more to choose from than just "traditional" Iceburg lettuce

There is so much more to choose from than just “traditional” Iceburg lettuce

We use a fair amount of straw mulch around the plants to keep weeds to a minimum – weeds can wreak havoc on lettuce crops.  Be sure to take care when weeding – lettuce roots are shallow and are easily pulled from the soil.

To help keep pests at bay – we like to plant a few of our hot pepper plants near our lettuce or directly in the middle of the lettuce bed. Garlic and onions are also known to have the same effect when planted near lettuce crops.

Harvesting Your Lettuce Crop:

Leaf lettuce can be harvested whenever the plants begin to become large enough to snip their tasty leaves.  The beauty of leaf style lettuce is that you can get multiple cutting from the same planting – increasing your yields.  Be aware though, that after the first few cuttings, the leaves will start to become a little less tender with each cutting.  If left alone, leaf lettuce will usually reach their maximum size in about 50 to 55 days.

Most head lettuce varieties mature in 55 to 70 days - and it is important to harvest them before the summer heat begins to wilt their leaves and change their taste.

To store lettuce, wash, drip or spin dry, and place in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Lettuce keeps best right around 32°F.

Here are some of the types we grow and love:

We love Romaine Ridge - an organic variety we found at Johnny's Seeds.

We love Romaine Ridge – an organic variety we found at Johnny’s Seeds.

Buttercrunch :  The name says it all!  Tasty, buttery leaves with a crisp bite.

Black Seeded Simpson :  A crisp, leaf lettuce with great flavor – also handles heat a little better than other varieities

Red Salad Bowl :   Just like its name, a great tasting, beautiful red-leafed lettuce adding lots of color to your plate.

Bibb Lettuce :  We use a variety call “Winter Bibb” – but bibb lettuce in general has a sweet, buttery leaf perfect for fresh salads.

Bibb lettuce is a great choice for the home gardener - it is full of flavor!

Bibb lettuce is a great choice for the home gardener – it is full of flavor!

Romaine (Ridgeline) : This is an amazing variety of romaine – easy to grow, with wonderful flavor.

Concept : A Summer Crisp lettuce, it’s a great choice to sow in late spring because it can tolerate more heat than most lettuce types

Happy Gardening – Jim and Mary

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The Farm Hits 1,000,000…And Exciting News With Hometalk!

Building our barn was the best

Our Recycled Barn – One of our favorite projects completed on the farm

Our garden - one of our favorite places to write about and work in!

Our garden – one of our favorite places to write about.

Saturday was a good day for Old World Garden Farms!

15 months ago, when we first started this blog to document building our little farm – we felt fortunate to have a few followers and a few hundred visitors each week. We enjoyed sharing our 3 weekly updates, The Sunday Farm Update Post, Tuesday DIY and gardening articles, and our Friday recipes.  

We used to joke about someday getting to 10,000 visitors, and a 100 followers.  Well, yesterday – in what still seems crazy to us – we passed our 1,000,000th visitor to the site and our 11,000th email follower!  

The milestone couldn’t have come at a better time – as we have a lot of exciting new ventures going on at the farm and the blog. We figured it was a great time to announce them today on the Sunday Update.

Hometalk and Old World Garden Farms – Planning Our First Garden Meet-Up Event

hometalkMaybe the most exciting news of the week is being selected by Hometalk to host a Meet-Up that will be taking place later this summer in Central Ohio. For those that don’t know – Hometalk is an incredible website devoted to DIY, Gardening And Landscaping – and creating a platform for people to instantly tap into others hard-earned experience.  They have featured many of our projects on their site in the past year, and we are so excited to be chosen to co-host a meet up event with them on our favorite subject – gardening!

old world garden farms logo smallWe have been working with Miriam Illions, the Director Of Community Development for Hometalk, to host the event here in Central Ohio.  We are still working out the details, but we will be partnering with Hometalk and a local Central Ohio Greenhouse to host an afternoon covering gardening techniques and tips that we use at the farm – including composting, raised bed gardening and more.  We will even have a a demo on working with pallets to build your own compost bin. It will be a great day to share gardening ideas and spread the word about one of our favorite sites, Hometalk.

We will be sure to publish all the details of the event in next Sunday’s post.  If you are close to the Columbus, Ohio area – we invite you to come on over and meet with us and share in a great day.  For those a little farther away – we will be sure to post lost of pictures and updates of the event!

sunday farm updates

Click To See All Of Our Past Sunday Farm Updates

While we are at it, we also want to take a minute to thank so many other blogs and websites that have helped us grow over the last year by showcasing our stories, recipes and gardening tips. In particular, Homestead Survival, Canning Granny and Prepper Chicks have all been instrumental in highlighting so many of our stories and posts to their readers – and they are incredibly wonderful web sites full of great information!

Last but not least – we extend a huge Old World Garden Farm “Thank You” to everyone who has visited, commented and shared in our stories to get us to our first million visits. We feel so fortunate to have such wonderful and loyal followers, and hope you continue along with us as our story at Old World Garden unfolds.  We hope someday, to document the entire journey in our ultimate dream – the writing and publishing of a book about our little farm. More than anything else, we will continue to do what we love the most – work and build our little farm one day at a time.

Happy Gardening – Jim and Mary!

f you would like to receive our Gardening / DIY and Farm Updates each week – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right had column, “like” us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter.

How To Grow Asparagus

There is nothing like having fresh asparagus from your own garden!  Asparagus is just one of those crops that no matter how fresh it may look or feel in the supermarket – the taste of home grown can’t be beat!

There is nothing like fresh picked asparagus from the garden!

There is nothing like fresh picked asparagus from the garden!

Asparagus is different than most of the vegetable crops planted in the garden.  Unlike annual varieties such as tomatoes, cucumber and peppers that need planted each year – asparagus is a perennial.  Once established, they can provide a good crop for 20 to 25 years for you and your family to enjoy!

They also differ because plants are either male or female.  The males are known to have larger and more abundant spear production, while the female varieties tend to be thinner and produce seeds in the fall for reproduction.   Most prefer to plant only the male for the added production levels.  Popular male varieties such as Jersey Giant and Jersey Knight are great choices for those looking for maximum yields.

Asparagus can be started from seed or from what are called crowns – which are nothing more than the roots of 1 to 2-year-old asparagus plants.  Most, (including us) really prefer starting them with the crowns and not from seed.  Growing from seed can take up to 2 to 3 years to have edible spears formed – while starting with crowns can give you a few spears to enjoy by the second year.  It’s also easier to start and maintain the crowns – as their growth is more defined early on, making it easier to keep weeded.

How To Plant :

The first spear of Asparagus breaking through the soil

The first spear of Asparagus breaking through the soil

With the long crop cycle of 20 or more years – it is important to prepare your bed space accordingly.  Work in generous amounts of compost to the soil before planting to provide a good starting base for your crop.  Asparagus will do best in a nice, sunny location.  They can tolerate some partial shade, but grow and thrive much better with full sun.

To plant asparagus, you will want to dig a trench about 6″ deep and about 8″ wide.   We like to space ours about 18″ between crowns.  Place the crown at the bottom of the trench, and cover with about 2″ of topsoil.  As the crown begins to grow through the soil, keep adding a few inches of soil until the soil level has filled in the trench over the course of a few weeks.  This process allows the asparagus to develop a deep root system to provide for years of crop harvests.

In the first year, allow your asparagus to grow tall and wispy to generate good root growth

In the first year, allow your asparagus to grow tall and wispy to generate good root growth.

For your first year, allow the plants to grow tall.   Resist the temptation to cut a few spears –  you want all of the growth to go to the plant and root structure.  In the fall after they have died off, you can cut them off about 1″ above the soil and place a little straw or compost mulch over them for the winter.

In year two, you will begin to see some small spears shoot through the earth in the spring. You can harvest the first week or two of spears, then allow the plants to once again grow tall and build up strength.  The year 2 spears will be smaller, but still very tasty!

Year 3 is where the fun begins!  You should be close to full harvest – enjoying fresh spears each and every spring for many years to come. After each spring harvest, let your asparagus grow tall in the beds and repeat the process of cutting back after they have died off in the fall.

Upkeep and Maintenance of Beds:

Add a few inches of compost to your beds  as a mulch each fall to keep them growing strong.

Add a few inches of compost to your beds as a mulch each fall to keep them growing strong.

The biggest key to good productive asparagus is to keep your beds weed free. Weeds and grass compete for valuable nutrients, and a weedy bed will result in smaller, less productive harvests.  We use either straw or compost mulch to keep ours weed-free throughout the year.  It’s also a good idea each fall to put on a two-inch covering of compost on top of your beds to give some added nutrients. Other than that - once established, your asparagus beds will provide you with years of fresh and amazing tasting crops each spring!

Happy Gardening!  - Jim and Mary

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The Honey Bees Arrive At The Farm! The Sunday Farm Update

The bees are dumped into our waiting hive.  In spite of some nervousness...the whole process went fairly well.

The bees are dumped into our waiting hive. In spite of some nervousness…the whole process went fairly well.

The bees are shipped in a wooden crate like box with a can of syrup to keep them fed.  The little tab you see on can is what is holding the queen's cage suspended in the box

The bees are shipped in a wooden crate like box with a can of syrup to keep them fed. The little tab you see on can is what is holding the queen’s cage suspended in the box

The dream of having our own bee hive at the farm – and of course our own  honey, finally became a reality this past week!  On Friday, we received our package of bees and within a few hours – Mary and I officially became “beekeepers”.

All in all, it was a fairly smooth process – taking only about 15 minutes to open the package, remove the queen and bees and place them into the hive.  We had both went over the process of hiving the packaged bees a hundred times in our head – but that doesn’t mean we weren’t a little nervous heading to the farm with about 8,000 bees in a box in the trunk!

Knowing that calm is a good thing when working with bees – we did our best to stay relaxed (or at least a good fake job :) ). We put on the bee suit and went to work.  We had installed the base and bee-hive structure the previous day in a semi-protected area along a tree line at the farm.  All we had to do now was open the box – remove the queen cage, dump the remaining bees into the hive, and then place the queen in with them.

The queen comes with the bees in a little “cage” suspended from the top of the bee package. On one end of the cage is a wooden plug that once removed, reveals a hard sugary substance. The entire cage is hung in the new hive, and the worker bees will slowly eat the sugar and release the queen. The time it takes this process to occur allows the bees and the queen to become familiar with each other and the bees to accept her as their queen.

Prying out the wooden plug from the queen's cage.  Once the wood plug is out -t he worker bees will begin to eat through the remaining sugar plug to free her into the hive.

Prying out the wooden plug from the queen’s cage. Once the wood plug is out -t he worker bees will begin to eat through the remaining sugar plug to free her into the hive.

About the only hiccup in the whole process is that I dropped the queen box into the mass of bees when opening the shipping box.   Needless to say, the bees were not very happy with me at that point!  But as they swarmed around me – I tried hard to remember the words of our bee-keeping mentor that “calm is good” – and that I was also fully protected.  I slowly reached in, removed it, and then continued on by dumping the remaining bees into the hive.  Next, we suspended the queen and her cage between the frames, closed it up, and all was well!

For the first week or two, we will supplement the bees with a syrup solution made simply from one part water and one part sugar.  It will provide the new colony with some nutrition while the bees become familiar with the surroundings and begin to collect and bring back pollen to the hive.  That is the yellow jar-like object you see attached to the hive.

Placing the Queen in the hive

Placing the Queen in the hive

After placing the queen in the hive, we simply closed the top.  The yellow jar attached to the hive is the  sugar water feeder.

After placing the queen in the hive, we simply closed the top. The yellow jar attached to the hive is the sugar water feeder.

By yesterday afternoon, just about 24 hours after we had released the bees into the hive – you could already see them flying in and out exploring their new surroundings. Most likely, we will be able to remove the feeder soon – especially with as warm as it is, and with plenty of pollen now available for the bees to collect.

It will be exciting to see the activity throughout the summer.  We will wait about 2 more days and then open the hive to make sure the queen has been freed from her cage and that she has begun to perform her duties. After that – we will leave them “be” for a while and let them to their work of gathering pollen and pollinating our crops.  Hopefully, by summer’s ends, we will have added a couple more super boxes to the hive and have some honey to share with friends and family.

Much like the bees, we have been busy as well this week with the early stages of planting – and continued work on the garden and grape vine fencing.

The sugar snap peas emerging through the ground

The sugar snap peas emerging through the ground

The radishes, carrots, sugar snap peas, onions, lettuce and kale have all emerged from the ground and are coming along nicely. The asparagus spears have broken through the ground as well. We started our asparagus patch last year with crowns – and now in their second season they are starting to really take off.  We will harvest just a few this year – and leave the rest to grow and become strong.  By next year, we should be starting to harvest a pretty good crop.  We were even able to plant our first 3 cucumbers yesterday in the straw bale garden crate.

This coming week – planting will continue with some of our peppers and zucchini, potatoes and onions will go in – followed by all of our tomatoes and peppers next week.  It’s hard to believe that within two weeks it will all be in the ground!

Happy Gardening!  - Jim and Mary

If you would like to receive our Gardening / DIY and Farm Updates each week – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right had column, “like” us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter.

The Straw Bale Pallet Crate Garden – Simple, Attractive – And Cheap!

A simple crate planter made from pallets and using a straw bale for a growing medium

A simple crate planter made from pallets and using a straw bale for a growing medium

So you have little space, little time, little money and you still want to garden.  Or maybe you would like to add a great looking focal point to your existing garden or landscape to grow something unique.   Even better, maybe you know of someone who still likes to garden but can’t get out or handle as much of the physical activity anymore.

Here is a great solution to all three!  Create your own Pallet Straw Bale Crate Garden.  It’s attractive, simple to build, and best of all, low or no cost to make.

To build on the cheap, you can create the straw bale frame using the slats from a single pallet

To build on the cheap, you can create the straw bale frame using the slats from a single pallet

With a single pallet, (3) 2x4x8′s, a bale of straw, and a bag or two of soil and compost – you can create an instant garden space that can provide fresh vegetables or flowers all summer long.

You can purchase all the materials you need for under $15.00 – or build for virtually free using pallets and scrap lumber.   We made a few single bale boxes last week for our garden – and will use them along our fence row to grow our cucumbers in.  You can also double the measurements to make a double bale box and plant to your heart’s content.

The straw bale crates have a lot of built-in advantages!  They are easy to maintain – with little weeding ever needed.  The 2’ high design lends itself to less stooping and bending while tending, and the combination straw, compost and soil make for a great instant growing medium – without the hassle of digging up the earth.

The best part of all – at the end of the season – you can add all of the contents to the compost pile –or start a compost pile right in the pallet box to have fresh compost next year when you’re ready to grow again!

Here is how we made ours:

Start by assembling 2 rectangle frames from scrap wood or 2 x 4's.

Start by assembling 2 rectangle frames from scrap wood or 2 x 4′s.

Next - attach the two rectangles with four of your slat boards in each corner

Next – attach the two rectangles with four of your slat boards in each corner

Next - screw in additional slat boards to create the crate "look".

Next – screw in additional slat boards to create the crate “look”.

Materials List:

(1) Straw Bale
(4) 2 x 4 x 20”
(4) 2 x 4 x 44”
(1) Pallet – for vertical boards – be sure to use untreated pallets to be “food safe”
(1) bag of compost – substitute your own for free material
(1) bag of topsoil – substitute your own for free material

***The straw bales we use measure 20″ wide, 18″ high and a little less than 46″ long. Bales can vary in length – so be sure to measure your bale to adjust the length and width of frame boards.  You can also reference our previous post’s on How To Disassemble A Pallet Quickly, and How To Make Your Own Compost for more info.

Building The Garden:

Assemble 2 rectangles from your 2×4’s – screwing or nailing together 2 of the 20” pieces and 2 of the 44” pieces.   Once you have both rectangles together – use your pallet boards to attach vertically to connect the two rectangles to create your straw bale box.

We cut our pallet slat boards into 18″ lengths, (we got about 2 boards for each slat) and then screwed them into the inside of the two frames to form the crate. The spacing is up to you – we put about 4” between each board for ours – we wanted the look of an “old-time” crate.

Planting The “Garden”

Next -use a sharp knife, reciprocating saw or shovel to dig out a 6 to 8" planting hole

Next -use a sharp knife, reciprocating saw or shovel to dig out a 6 to 8″ planting hole

Simply place your plant in the hole and cover with more soil.

Simply place your plant in the hole and cover with more soil.

We like to put a layer of compost or mulch over the top of the bale to complete the look.

We like to put a layer of compost or mulch over the top of the bale to complete the look.

Now it’s easy – place the bale down inside the frame – you may need to wiggle a little and cut a little off here and there to get it to fit depending on the size of the bale.

Simply use a sharp knife or blade to cut out your planting holes – we went about 8” deep and 5” around– filling them with a good mixture of garden soil and compost.  Plant, cover up, water – and the garden is in!  Depending on what you plant – you can fit in 5 to 6 tomato plants, or a combination of pepper and tomato plants per bale, etc.  You can plant a little closer than traditional garden rows because of the raised beds.  Only your imagination is the limit to what you want to grow!

You will get some compression of the bale as the season progresses – the bale will slowly decompose, giving even more nutrients to the plants.  Your plant and roots will thrive in the soil, compost and straw because the garden is off the ground – there will be very little weeds that develop, and should be easy with the added height to pick and maintain.

End of the Season :

If you have a compost bin already set up – you can certainly take the contents and throw them into the pile.  The decomposed straw and soil mixture are great for a pile – adding a lot of carbon material. If not – use the crate box as a compost bin!  Mix up the bale and contents right in the pallet box structure – and start adding some shredded fall leaves, coffee grounds,  vegetable scraps , lawn clippings and more.  By next spring – you will have enough compost made to use in the next bale for planting, with extra if you need it.

So how about trying a straw bale pallet crate garden this year!  And if you have a neighbor or relative that loves garden but finds it difficult now – it’s a great gift to let them have their very own garden

Happy Gardening – Jim and Mary

If you would like to receive our DIY & Gardening Tips every Tuesday – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right hand column, “like” us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter.

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6 Tips To Eliminate Weeds From Your Garden!

Weeds.  The enemy of gardeners the world around! They are responsible for choking the life from vegetable and flower gardens, while stealing life-giving nutrients away from our plants. Weeds are also the reason many gardeners throw their hands up by mid-summer and call it a year.

Weed Free gardens produce higher yields

Weed Free gardens produce higher yields

A weed free garden is a healthy garden

A weed free garden is a healthy garden

It simply doesn’t have to be that way.  In fact, some of the most time-consuming chores we have been led to believe help with gardening and weeds – are actually the main culprit to creating more! Simply by eliminating those weed promoting practices, and replacing with a few time and labor saving methods – you can all but eliminate the issue of weeds in your garden.

We spend no more than 10 minutes a day handling all of the chores in our garden – including weeding – and that’s not a misprint! The first step is realizing that eliminating weeds in a garden is a process and not a one time thing.  But don’t let that scare you –  the process is simple and leads to a productive and beautiful garden in a fraction of the time.

Here are six ways we keep our garden weed free – and fun to be and work in!

TIP 1:  Eliminate Bare Soil From Your Garden And Beds

Bare soil is an invitation for weeds and weed seeds t0 find a home

Bare soil is an invitation for weeds and weed seeds to find a home

Bare soil is at the root of most weed problems.  Bare soil is an open invitation for blowing weed seeds to become established. By using mulches and protecting the soil, you can cut the potential for future weeds dramatically!  We use a combination of mulches in our garden space to keep it covered. Straw and shredded leaf mulch in the walking rows, and a 2 to 3 inch mulching of compost right around our plants.

Just remember – open space is an open invitation for weeds and soil erosion

TIP 2: Resist the Urge to Dig and Till Your Soil: 

This is the biggest time-saving AND weed saving tip we can give.  Stop tilling the garden! In the time it takes a person to till between the rows of a garden the same size as ours, we have finished our 10 minute gardening work day, grilled out for dinner and are sitting on the patio enjoying a cool beverage!  And while working that extra time tilling – that person also just replanted tens of thousands of weed seeds that will germinate in the coming weeks.

Tilling is an invitation to weeds

Tilling is an invitation to weeds

Tilling simply takes all of the weed seeds that are laying on the surface, where they may never germinate, and plants them into the soil.  Tilling over time also can destroy your soil’s structure, but when it comes to weeds – it’s a prime reason gardeners have to spend so much time trying to eliminate them. It takes time, gas, and is a never-ending chore.  Instead – heavily mulch your rows with grass clippings, straw, or shredded leaves – they keep weeds to a minimum and help add vital nutrients to the soil as they break down.

We believe in this one so much we actually have an entire post dedicated to it: Why Not To Use  A Rototiller.

TIP 3: Don’t Over Hoe Your Row

Here’s another long time garden chore that used to take hours in the garden – and should take only minutes.  Using a hoe to loosen the surface soil around the base and root zone of your plant is a great weekly practice. It provides air to the plant’s base and allows nutrients and water to more easily reach the root structure.  But that is the extent of what is needed – just a 3 to 5″ light hoeing of the perimeter soil around the base of each plant. Leave all of the other space in your planting rows alone and simply mulch it!  Over-hoeing creates the same issue as tilling – planting above ground weeds seeds back into the earth.  All you need is a light hoeing immediately around the plants – it saves tons of time and labor, and eliminates replanting weed seeds.

TIP 4 : Start Practicing The Art Of Cover Crops:

Cover crops keep the soil from eroding and weed seeds form finding a home

Cover crops keep the soil from eroding and weed seeds from finding a home

Start cover cropping this fall.  Cover crops really help eliminate weeds over time by protecting your bare soil over the late fall, winter and early spring months.  They have obvious benefits to helping your soils vitality, but they also help to form a barrier for blowing seeds to enter and lay in wait.  After a season or two of cover crops – you will be amazed how little weeds actually even appear in your garden.  You can find more about cover crops here : Cover Crops In Your Garden.

Tip 5 : Keeping The Weeds Out Of Walking Rows:

Keeping weeds out of the walking rows between your plants is just as important to the health of your garden as it is the look.  The answer – Mulch – Mulch and more Mulch!  We use whatever we have on hand.  Straw and shredded leaves work great to create a thick 3 to 5″ covering between our planting rows.  From time to time a few weeds will start to pop up – and we simply pull them on our daily trips through the garden. If they become thicker – we  simply take the weed eater through the garden and mow them down to the grown and  reapply a few more inches of mulch.  It immediately looks great again and stays that way for weeks.  It’s so much quicker and better than tilling up that soil between your rows!

TIP 6: Practice The 10 Minute-A-Day Philosophy 

10 minutes a day goes a long way in the garden

10 minutes a day goes a long way in the garden

I think there are a lot of skeptics when we say we spend only 5 to 10 minutes a day in the garden for maintenance.  However, that is one of the biggest secrets to maintaining a weed free garden - actually  spending that time in the garden each day! This may sound a bit crazy, but 10 minutes of daily work is not the same as spending 70 minutes once a week in the garden.

In fact, there is a huge difference between the two. If you let the garden go for more than a day or two – weeds and the problems they bring multiply and magnify.  Roots get deeper, spread and multiply, and suddenly you feel overwhelmed.  What takes 10 minutes one day can suddenly take 4 to 8 hours when it has been neglected for a week or two. And guess what? It’s not fun anymore at that point.

We head into the garden every day and walk the rows.  If we see a weed around a plant, we pull it as we go. Usually, once a week we will spend the time hoeing the area only around the plants – once again – the process just takes 10 minutes to do the entire garden.  Another day, we spend the time putting down some extra compost mulch around the plants or straw or shredded leaves in the paths.  That’s it.

So there you have it – how we keep our weeds and workload to a minimum.  And remember the reason most of us garden in the first place – to eat healthier and get a little exercise.  This is a perfect 10 minute workout every day!

Happy Gardening! – Jim and Mary

If you would like to receive our DIY & Gardening  Tips every Tuesday – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right hand column, “like” us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter

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Growing A Garden For Canning – How To PLAN TO CAN and Save Big!

^ quarts of homemade pasta sauce sit in the pressure canner

6 quarts of homemade pasta sauce sit in the pressure canner.

Canning can give you the taste and goodness of your garden year round - and save money as well!

Canning can give you the taste and goodness of your garden year round – and save money as well!

It seems that every year, more and more people are coming back to the art and joy of gardening.  Not just because they love the feel of getting their hands in the soil – but because they ultimately want to feed their families better tasting and healthier food while saving money.  As food prices continue to rise – people are looking to the garden to offset the cost. This spring, with just a little extra planning – you can maximize those gardening efforts into a virtual year-round pantry – and in the process, take a big bite out of those escalating grocery bills!

As much as we enjoy our garden for the fresh tomatoes, peppers, corn, green beans and more –  we create our garden plan each year with the additional goal of canning and freezing enough of the harvest to feed our family year-round.

We’ve figured out that the best way to maximize our effort is to plan now for what we want to eat later.  It’s really no different than the age-old concept of planning out your week’s meals before heading to the grocery. It eliminates ending up with produce that you have no idea what to do with in late fall – and not enough of the ones you need to can and freeze to feed your family.  Here are some helpful tips to help Plan to Can:

Take stock now of what you eat and need year-round

Tomatoes make up a large part of our garden because we use so many of them fresh and canned!

Tomatoes make up a large part of our garden because we use so many of them fresh and canned!

Fresh Picked Pasta Sauce Ingredients :  Roma Tomatoes, Green Bell Pepper, Sweet Yellow Onion, Red Roaster Pepper, and fresh picked basil

Fresh picked Green Bell Pepper, Sweet Yellow Onion, Red Roaster Pepper, and Basil turn into great tasting pasta sauce

This may sound simple – but its easy to overlook!  Nothing can beat the taste of a freshly picked ear of corn, or a spring onion pulled right from the ground.  But sometimes we get caught up in thinking only about the fresh – and not about what you and your family eat and enjoy the most all year long. The key is to take both the fresh and year-round concepts and translate it into your garden plan – planting enough to satisfy both needs.

A great example for us is tomato juice.  Mary and I love our homemade tomato juice.  Its delicious and most importantly – we know exactly what goes into it – just our organic tomatoes!  On average – we go through a quart jar every week, meaning we need a minimum of 52 quarts canned to get us through.   The result: A dedicated row planted each year for our  juicing tomatoes.  Last year that row netted over 70 quarts!

Tomatoes in fact take up a large part of our garden space because we use so many tomato based products throughout the year. Homemade pasta sauce, salsa, picante, pizza sauce and ketchup are all big hits in the house. We make a pasta dish almost weekly for a family meal – and the kids can devour a jar of salsa in a single sitting.  The result – 3 entire rows in our garden each year dedicated to La Roma and Celebrity tomatoes – great for making sauces, salsas and more.

Plant More Of  What You Currently Buy:

We have more rows of green beans planned for this years garden

We have more rows of green beans planned for this years garden

This is also the time to think about what you buy now and that you could grow or grow more of to preserve.  We fell in love with the taste of our canned green beans last year, and just didn’t plant enough to store as many as we would eat.  So for this year, we have bumped up the number of planting rows from one to four.

All of this planning can save big money!  We have not purchased a store bought can or jar of  tomato juice, salsa, picante or pasta sauce in three years.  Just using a conservative estimate – that saves us nearly $500 to $700 a year on those items alone.  The best part – it’s home grown food with no preservatives or chemicals – what could be better than that?!

Growing For The Freezer and Freezing Smart:

Frozen peppers are a great addition to many dishes, and easy to  sue when they are in single dish portions

Frozen peppers are a great addition to many dishes, and easy to sue when they are in single dish portions

The same concept goes into freezing.  We love to use peppers, onions, and snap peas in stir fry’s and other dishes, so we make sure to plant enough to eat fresh, and preserve some by freezing for later.  We also freeze a large quantity of our Cajun Belle and Jalapeno peppers to use later as quick appetizers.

When we first started out – we would simply freeze them into big bags – only to find out we could never use them up quick enough before going bad.  Now – we freeze sliced green peppers, onion, and snap peas in the perfect dish serving size.  Come winter – it’s a snap (no pun intended) to pull them out and throw them in whatever we are making.  No waste of time or produce!

Thinking Outside Of The Box With Surplus Vegetables:

A bumper crop of peppers led to us making our own dried pepper flakes, grind and chili powder

A bumper crop of peppers led to us making our own dried pepper flakes, grind and chili powder

Now we enjoy our own hot pepper flakes, smoked chipotle peppers and chili powder

Now we enjoy our own hot pepper flakes, smoked chipotle peppers and chili powder

You also have to think outside of the proverbial box when a certain plant goes crazy and your left with a huge surplus. A few years back – we had a mammoth crop of hot peppers.  We love them more than anybody – but there are only so many fresh jalapenos and habaneros you can eat in a given day without shooting flames from your head.  The solution: We decided to take the extras and dry them on low heat in the oven and our smoker.  The result – some of the best homemade pepper grind, flakes and chili powder we have ever tasted.   We’ve since cut back on the amount of peppers we grow – but we make sure to include enough every year to roast a few pans for our needs.

So this year as you think about the garden and all of those amazing fresh things you will grow and eat – put a little extra thought into what you want year round – you will be rewarded with some great winter produce – and huge savings on your grocery bill!

Happy  Growing!  For those that want to see our garden plan for this year – you can see it here : 2013 Garden Plan

- Jim and Mary

If you would like to receive our DIY & Gardening  Tips every Tuesday – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right hand column, “like” us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter

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Happy New Year – Our Top 5 Posts From The Past Year

happy new yearOn this last day of the year, Mary and I wanted to take a moment to wish everyone a Happy New Year and send a big thank you to everyone who follows along with our Old World Garden Farm Blog.

Here is a list of our Top 5 most viewed posts of this past year – and we hope to have many more to come from the farm in 2013.  We will continue on in the New Year with our 3 post-a-week format.  Sunday’s Farm Update, Tuesday’s DIY and Gardening Post, and Friday’s Recipe Of The Week.

Here are our Top 5 Posts for 2012:

1. Using Pallets to Build a Canning Pantry Cupboard 

2. Preparing the Garden for Next Year

3. Building with Pallets – How to disassemble a pallet

4. Three Simple Tips to Plan Your Garden for Next Year

5. Wow – I Could Have Made My Own V-8

How To Easily Start Garden And Flower Seeds Indoors On The Cheap!

We start all of our ornamental pepper plants indoors.  Here are our

We start all of our ornamental pepper plants indoors. Here are our poinsettia peppers in mid summer bloom.

Our Sangria Seedlings At The Tender Age of 4 Weeks

Our Sangria seedlings at the tender age of 4 weeks.  The low hanging lights allow them to grow steady and strong.

I think one of the most rewarding experiences for a home gardener is starting their own seeds indoors. For one, it’s an incredibly satisfying feeling to make a tiny seed grow into a beautiful plant for you and your family to enjoy. It also can be a tremendous cash saver – plants can be expensive when purchasing them all at your local greenhouse. Especially if you want to grow specialty or heirloom seeds that are hard to find.

We use a low-cost, simple set up to grow our seedlings indoors.  It has allowed us to expand our garden and landscape without breaking the bank.

Let’s start with a few, money saving tips of what you won’t need: Heating Mats and Specialty Lights.

It’s not that heating mats don’t work – they do. They help warm the soil and help to germinate seeds.  But unless you live in a 40 degree barn…normal room temperatures will work. It make a take a day or two longer to germinate than if you use heating mats – but the seeds will grow just fine.

There is also no need to waste big money on high-priced “grow lights” or bulbs with a special light spectrum for raising seedlings. They do have a place for certain types of special growing applications – but if your goal is to start and raise seeds indoors – a couple of good old-fashioned inexpensive flourescent “shop lights” work incredibly well. Most of us have a few already around the house.  If not, they can be had at your local hardware store for about $10 to $15, and can be used year after year. I am a big believer in the lights.  Yes, it’s true that you can use a sunny window of your house – but it’s hard to get seedlings to grow straight using natural winter sunlight from a window.  You need to turn them constantly – and the seedlings tend to grow thin and skinny trying to reach up for the light.

What you will need to start up to 4 flats of seeds indoors:

A couple of inexpensive double shop lights -and we can raise 4 whole flats of seedlings.

A couple of inexpensive double shop lights are more than enough to grow 4 whole flats of seedlings.

One (1) 32 quart bag of potting soil or seed starter mix.  We make our own from equal parts of our compost, sand and soil, but if your starting out, you can buy a good bag for around $10.  It will be more than enough to fill four flats and have some left over for next year.

Two (2) inexpensive dual-bulb 4′ flourescent shop lights. (4 bulbs total)  You can pick them up at your local hardware store for about $10 – $15 – and most all of them even come with little hooks and a chain for hanging over your plants.

Plants ready to head for the garden and landscape!

Plants ready to head for the garden and landscape!

Four (4) empty flats with seed tray inserts.  (we like the 36 cell plant trays – the individual cells are big enough that you won’t need to transplant the seedling into anything else before they go into the ground)

A few blocks of scrap wood and two 5′ 2×4′s to hang your lights from.

Your seeds of choice.  Whatever seeds you use – make sure to label your flats with what you plant in them – it’s easy to get them mixed up as they grow into mature plants.  As for when to start your seeds – the back of each seed package will usually tell you the optimum time, however, a general rule of thumb is 6 to 8 weeks before planting outdoors.

The Process:

1. Fill your seed trays with soil mixture — pack lightly – you want the soil to be light and fluffy to allow room for root growth and water filtering through.   Moisten the soil –don’t drench.  You just want to have the soil wet to the touch – An empty spray bottle of water works great for the first few weeks of starting.

A young seedling emerges from the soil

A young seedling emerges from the soil

2. Plant your seeds at a rate of 2 per space – preferably not on top of each other, but in slightly different areas towards the center. Each seed packet will tell you the depth that the seeds should be planted — most are about 1/8″ to 1/4″ inch deep. Planting two seeds ensures that you can get at least one seed to germinate in every space. Yes, you will have to thin later – but better to have too many than none at all! After planting your seeds, lightly moisten the soil again and then cover with a clear plastic sheet or lid and keep out of direct sunlight.

The seedling emerges with two full leaves - now is the time to thin

The seedling emerges with two full leaves – now is the time to thin

3. I know it sounds strange to put them out of direct sunlight – but covering them allows moisture to build up and helps to achieve optimum conditions for the seeds to sprout. You will most likely not have to water during this time — just make sure the soil remains moist.

By using clear plastic you can see when the plants  actually come up without taking off the cover and disturbing the plants and releasing the moisture.

Young seedling growing into a nice plant

Young seedling growing into a nice plant

4. Once you see 1-2 seedlings sprouting out of the soil, remove the lid and place onto a table or flat surface.   You can now set up your shop lights.  You want the lights to hover down about 1 to 2″ from the top of the plants.  We do this by putting blocks of wood at each end and running a 5′ 2×4 over all of the flats of seedlings.  We then simply screw a little hook into the 2×4′s and hang them with a little hook.  (usually included in the shop light kits)  When we need to raise the lights as the plants grow – we just add another block of wood to each end.  You will want to give your plants about 12 to 14 hours of light each day.  (For how to build a cool indoor seed rack stand on the cheap – check out our latest article here : Indoor Plant Rack Stand – On The Cheap)

Plants need to be "hardened" off to adjust to real light and temperatures before planting outdoors

Plants need to be “hardened” off to adjust to real light and temperatures before planting outdoors

You will also need to water more frequently now — most likely once a day – and as the plants grow in the coming weeks – you will continue to adjust those two lights to keep them at 1 to 2″ above the top of the plants. You want the soil to stay moist but not water logged.  This is also the time to start thinning to allow for one seed per container. If you have an empty cell, you can replant extra sprouts into the empty cells.  We just use a flat head screwdriver to lift out the extra seedling and plant into the empty cell.

The shop lights at such close range keep the seeds growing straight up and at a slower, stronger rate. One of the problems with using just direct sunlight is that the plants will get leggy as they reach to the light source. With the shop lights at such a close range..they grow nice and slow and develop strong roots and leaf structure.

The Sangria Peppers we grew from seed in full bloomAfter about 6 to 8 weeks – your plants will be ready to go. As the weather begins to warm – we will take our plants out onto the back porch to get some regular sun and start adjusting to the temperature and light. One thing to avoid is to take your plants directly from the shop lights and plant them in the yard – you want to give them time to adjust to sunlight and temperature – a process called hardening off. Usually by the end of March – we start to keep them on the porch longer and longer – and near the end – only bring them in or cover them if there is a threat of frost to get them ready for the great outdoors!

- Jim and Mary  

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