seed starting rack
We start almost all of our seeds on our home built seed starting rack

For the last few years, in the late winter months, our dining room table transforms into our seed starting area – or as we like to call it – our mini garden. We actually had it down to a science, using a few inexpensive shop lights to grow our plants healthy and strong. 

The mini garden set-up unfortunately also rendered the dining area useless for the 6 to 8 weeks it took to grow all of the ornamental pepper and garden plants we use.  Not to mention, some strange looks from company wondering what we were “growing” in there under the dim glow of flourescent lights :).

seed starting rack
Our seed-starting rack stand – room for over 500 seedlings!

So, for this week’s DIY segment –  we thought we would design and build our very own lighted seed starting rack. The rack will allow us to move the entire seed starting operation out of the dining room – and into an unused portion of our basement.  It also allows us to double the seeds and plants we can start indoors in less space – from the 4 flats we could start on the table, to a full 8 flats.

We wanted it to be simple, strong, and of course, as always – inexpensive!

Using just nine simple  2 x 4 x 8 pieces of lumber, a single sheet of particle board and 4 inexpensive double-bulb shop lights – this can be made from scratch for around $50 to $70. Even less if you happen to have some old shop lights or scrap lumber laying around!   The seed starting rack will accommodate up to 8 full size seed trays on the two growing shelves – and can grow up to 576 plants if using the 72 pack cell inserts.

There is even shelf space at the bottom to store gardening supplies – or if you are really ambitious – another layer of plants!  The best part of the project – it can be assembled with simple tools in less than an hour or two. 

Building The Seed Starting Rack

Once you have your 3 rectangles assembled - screw in the four 6' vertical boards to the bottom shelf first
Once you have your 3 rectangles assembled – screw in the four 6′ vertical boards to the bottom shelf first

Materials List:

(9)  ea. 2  x4  x8’s
(4) ea. Hanging Shop Lights
(1) 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2 strand board or plywood
(50) 3″ screws
(8 to 12) 2″ screw hooks

Tools Needed:

Circular or Chop Saw
Screw Gun
Tape Meassure

How We Built It:  

(We have included extra photos of the seed starting rack at the bottom of the post to show the building process)

Start by cutting all of your pieces:

You will need to cut the 2×4’s into the following sizes:
4) ea. 6′ long
8) ea. 4′ long
8) ea. 2′ long

Taking the 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood or strand board, cut three pieces, each 27″ x 4′ wide – these will become the shelves of the stand.

Next - attach the sceond rectangle wood square to the top of the 4 6'support legs
Next – attach the second rectangle wood square to the top of the 4 6′ support legs

The actual building process is a snap – especially if you have two people for an extra set of hands. We normally use construction adhesive when we build anything for extra durability – but we forewent that on this project in case we ever want to disassemble and relocate the shelves.

Start by building your 4 rectangular shelf supports from the 4′ and 2′ pieces.  Create a rectangle by placing two 2′ boards flush at the ends of two 4′ boards.  Drive a single screw in the middle of each connection to create a solid rectangle.  Repeat until you have all four rectangles assembled.

Next, we will assemble the bottom shelf first. Take one of your 6 foot boards and place it flush on the end of the outside edge of where the 2′ and 4′ pieces meet. (see pictures)  Then – making sure your 6′ board is straight in the air at a 90 degree angle – we screw it in place with a total of 4 screws.  We put 2 screws that sink into the 2′ board and 2 more than sink into the 4′ board. Repeat for the other 3 “legs” and you are on your way to your plant stand.

Next – we screw in one more of the rectangles the same way – this one at the top – flush with the top of the 6′ boards. Once you have this screwed in – your stand will start to become very stable.

Attach the final two shelf rectangles for your two shelves.
Attach the final two shelf rectangles for your two shelves.

Now, we just simply repeat with the final two rectangles, screwing them in to form the bases for the growing shelves. For our set-up, we set our two shelves at 23″ apart – this allows us plenty of room to adjust the lights up and down with chains as the plants grow, and lets our plants have plenty of room to grow big.  As another option you could also evenly space the two middle shelves and actually grow on the bottom shelf as well for 3 growing areas.  For us, two is more than plenty – and we will just use the bottom shelf as for storage items.

Next, slide in the 3 27″ x 4′ shelf boards you have cut from the plywood or strand board to make your shelves.  Simply drive a few screws into the support frame to secure.

Once you have all of your shelves in, its time to hang your lights. Simple screw hooks work great here.  A small pre-drilled hole will help you screw them in.  We install 2 hooks on each side – spaced evenly on the 2 foot end bars.  Most of the inexpensive shoplights at the big box stores will come with a small chain and S hook for the light – just install and your set.  To make ours even easier to operate – we are going to install a small power strip on the side, allowing the lights to be turned on with a single flip of the switch.

There you have it – an inexpensive seed-starting stand!  If you want more information of starting seeds – you can see our article from a few weeks back – How To Easily Start Seeds Indoors

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–  Jim and Mary

Shared on Savvy Southern Style, Gnowfglins

Close up of the rectangle shelf supports attached to the post. We attach 4 screw on the outside of each shelf angle support to add extra strength to each
Close up of the rectangle shelf supports attached to the post. We attach 4 screw on the outside of each shelf angle support to add extra strength to each
Four screws are driven in to the outside of each post at every shelf corner
Four screws are driven in to the outside of each post at every shelf corner
Side View of the shelf supports
Side View of the shelf supports
Measuring Down For The Shelves
Measuring Down For The Shelves
Use a level to make sure your shelf supports are level when attaching
Use a level to make sure your shelf supports are level when attaching

68 thoughts on “How To Build An Indoor Seed Starting Rack – Cheap!

  • July 15, 2016 at 2:52 pm

    I built a stand like this many years ago and had a different set=up for hanging the lights. There were 1 1/2″ rods that spanned the width with a finishing nail in each end of the rod. I hung sash chain down the ends (2 lengths down each end) from top to bottom. Chain the lights to the rods, then hook the nails into the chain to hang. To move the light up, just move the whole rod to a new chain loop. It was very easy to move the lights or to slant them slightly to one end so that they were closer to the plants.

  • March 20, 2016 at 7:48 pm

    any thoughts on designing this for easy storage when not in use? since this will only be in use for 2-3 months it would be conveinient to store it in the attic or other area for those of us where space is a premium

    • November 16, 2016 at 8:41 am

      I made one years 25 years ago – still in use – by screwing the whole thing together loosely, then fitting with lag bolts/wing nuts and removing most of the screwed -together joints. You need two lag bolts per joint for a secure assembly. This way the whole frame and be easily disassembled at the end of the season. I ended up leaving the “ends” screwed together because I have storage space for those, but theoretically, the whole thing can be disassembled. You have to flip the end 2x4s ninety degrees to be able to bolt the shelf supports to the end frame.
      It takes me less than 30 mins to assemble the whole thing, most of that time cursing while trying to hang the heavy, old T-12 fixtures. Not sure if I’m happy or sorry I stocked up on those bulbs 10 years ago….
      Some tips:
      1 – LABEL ALL THE JOINTS before you disassemble the first time!!! You will never (unless you are a master carpenter, and I am not) get the bolt holes to match up unless you do.
      2 – Drill the bolt holes slightly larger than necessary for the bolts. Makes dis- and re-assembly much easier.
      Sometimes a hammer is necessary to convince the bolts to go through the holes. NEVER pound the threaded end of of the bolt for removal. If you need to use a hammer, screw a nut to the end and tap gently on the nut so you don’t destroy the bolt threads. (again, voice of experience talking here)
      3.- Use washers with the wing nuts for a tight fit. I used regular nuts for years before i switched to wing nuts/washers, tightening everything with a hex wrench – boy, was that dumb!
      4 – An assistant with assembly is always welcome (though sometimes I have to do it myself – 5’2″, 110#)
      5 – Don’t panic when your frame is wobbly upon assembly, it will stiffen when you tighten all the nuts.
      I have some old plastic signs I used for seed tray platforms that I duct tape to the frame, but You could cut 1/4″ plywood. I’d seal it with paint or urethane. Never had my shelves NOT get wet. Maybe I’m just messy.
      6 – I used 2×3 lumber instead of 2×4 to make the whole thing lighter weight.
      Happy Seed Starting!

  • February 24, 2016 at 11:30 pm

    Oh yeah, forgot to add this. I covered mine too , not at first but as I learned more about temps I needed to bump it up. Mine sits in front of a windowb in the basement and I didn’t want to block that so I made a tent of mylar emergency blankets. They are really cheap but they tear after rolling the up and down. So I ended up keeping the mylar in the back but I bought cheap white shower curtains at the dollar store for the rest. Works perfect. John

  • February 24, 2016 at 11:23 pm

    Great article, thanks for sharing. I built mine very similar to this one a while back. Couple of things different on mine. I made mine 33 X 49. That way each shelf holds 6 trays and 4 shop lights with 2 tubes each. The trays are 11X22 and so I put 4 one way and 2 the other way. Next, one of my shelves has a piece of galvanized sheet metal on top. Got that at a HVAC place. Instead of just a plywood shelf, that one is 3.5 inches thick (a 2X4 on edge) and has a plywood bottom. So it is a 33X49X3 inch box filled with sand and a heating cable for bottom heat. 8 sets of shop lights with room for 4 more on the bottom shelf if I remove the 5 gal buckets from the bottom shelf. Max capacity is 18 trays. John

  • February 11, 2016 at 7:20 pm

    Oh, this is just what I was looking for! I will use it in my conservatory where I start my broad (fava) and runner (pole) beans off in 3 inch pots. There won’t be any need for artificial light as it is an all glass conservatory (sun room) and I’ll be making enough shelves for 6 trays of 66 pots. This is just perfect. Shame timber is so damned dear here in the UK …

  • February 8, 2016 at 7:38 pm

    Great design. Because my basement is so cold (55 degrees) I decided to wrap the unit with 3/4″ foam sheeting. (3 sheets 4×8′)To make this look neat I moved the legs 3/4″ past the front and back of the shelves. This allows the foam to be recessed on the sides and flush on the front and back. I took the leftover 2×4 foam sheeting and inset it in the top and bottom shelves to seal the unit. Just waiting for the lights to come!

  • February 22, 2015 at 7:43 am

    You can improve this design a bit by adding plywood to the back and sides and swing up or down doors on the front. Then paint everything on the inside in flat white latex paint for light reflection. Your plants will benefit from the extra light.

  • February 21, 2015 at 4:47 pm

    Hello! I’m new to growing plants indoors and have loved all the great information you have! One question I have-when using the 72 cell treys, can the plants be left in those cells till they are planted outdoors or will they need to be transplanted to larger containers before being planted outside? The cells seem rather small to hold a tomato plant or pepper plant. If they do need to be transplanted to larger containers could you give advice on the size of containers to use and how/when to transplant the plants without shocking them? Thanks!

  • January 17, 2015 at 2:13 am

    I built this rack as soon as I saw your post. We over-winter Geraniums in the basement and this is just what I needed. Naturally, I made a few modifications:) I made the cross pieces 1′-9″ instead of 2′-0″. I cut the plywood into (4) 2′-0″ pieces and used one for an additional (top) shelf. Then I hung lights from the ceiling and put plants on the new top shelf. I used 3 shop lights per level and turned the flats sideways, fitting 4 per shelf under the lights. This gives me 16 flats in 2’x4′ of floor space, including the storage shelf you have at the bottom… I use it for seed germination with heat mats and lights. This is a really great design!

    • January 17, 2015 at 11:24 am

      Tom – that is so great to hear and it sounds perfect for what you need!

  • December 29, 2014 at 10:01 pm

    You never mentioned the length of your chains for the shop lights.
    The 9 inch chain provided with the light is not near enough. The hooks are inset
    At 6 inches. It appears I need around 16 to 18 inches. The fixture height is 3 inches.
    Do u remember the length that u used.

    My lights appear to be the illustration with the lights on the bottom shelf on a bit of an angle.

    • December 30, 2014 at 6:15 am

      Todd – I used extra s hooks at the top to lower it a bit more with the chains – especially in the beginning when the lights had to be at their lowest. I just measured the chains that came with ours and they are around 12″ – so they have maybe since made them smaller. You could easily add an extra s hook at the bottom to to get you to the height. I hope that helps! Jim

  • March 24, 2014 at 9:21 am

    This was my Saturday morning project and it came out great! I followed your instructions to the letter and couldn’t be happier with my new seed growing unit. I have one of those expensive jobs that I got from a greenhouse supplier and I like this one much better because the plants are more accessible. This is also a VERY sturdy unit. I plan to use all three shelves for growing. When I come across an extra 27″X4′ piece of plywood, I’ll screw it to the top for storage space. I put three lights in per shelf instead of two and have the trays running front to back instead of side to side. This increases the growing area considerably. It cost me about $70 for the materials, not including the lights, which I already had. I am always scouring garage sales and Craig’s List for shop lights! Thank you for such a great design and clear instructions! My next project is your pallet compost bin!

    • March 26, 2014 at 9:08 pm

      So Glad it turned out for you Sara!! Sounds like you are all ready to grow!!! Thanks for letting us know – Jim

  • March 12, 2014 at 8:40 pm

    I made this out of recycled wood and used pallets for the shelving… it turned out great! Feel free to check out the pictures I took on my Facebook page. Thank you again for the information 🙂

  • February 7, 2014 at 10:21 pm

    Michelle, thank you so much for the advise to save money on materials! I’m sure other readers will find that info useful! The funny thing is, you posted the suggestions while I was at Home Depot buying the lumber! 🙂
    I went for it!!! I added a couple steps of my own: I used left over stain on the frame. Now it’s a beautiful chocolate brown. I’m also using left over white primer on the shelves. We think the bright white will reflect the light a little. I’m also adding heat because this will be in our cold garage, with an idea I found here:
    (Oops! Added another $40 in cost).
    I’m working my way through the project while it’s raining outside. The DIY’er in me couldn’t let this project go just because of a little extra expense :). My other justification (besides bragging rights) will be that I can start plants for my friends and family once our first batch is done. Thanks for the great idea and detailed instructions! I’m having lots of fun putting this together.

  • January 30, 2014 at 8:25 am

    Great idea ! I plan to build this in a few weeks. Going to add casters to be able to move around if needed – we have more than one large picture window that can be used for light.
    Thanks for sharing. Sam

  • January 28, 2014 at 2:06 am

    I saw this post a couple days ago and I’ve been obsessively planning the project since… We bought our first home last January. We spent around $1,500 buying supplies to landscape our backyard, including the cost of sod. We are super excited for spring to come and have lots of plans to add to our yard. One project is adding a shade garden. Remembering that we paid $5-$20 per plant last year, I thought starting seeds now would help save. Seems to be a false dream so far.
    After doing the math I’m finding that the shelving unit (with lights) alone will be over $100. Then add the cost of 8 trays – around $68. Since we’ll be housing the shelf in the garage, I’ll have to do a diy soil-heating project, probably another $50. Then the cost of a good bag of starter soil and the seeds, $20.
    Now I’m starting to wonder if I should venture this far into starting my own seeds.

    • February 3, 2014 at 4:22 pm

      You are wise to count the cost, Vanessa. IS it possible to find scrap lumber at a building site? I have done that, ask the builder and see if you cant take away free waste materials. Lighting might be had at a Thrift store on the cheap. You may have to hunt a bit, but might be worth it if you have time. You might even find an old metal shelving unit that could be put to use. Use what you have: an old side table or picnic bench or some bricks and boards. You could also consider what you really need and discover that you dont need so much. Start small and work up. Use egg shell halfs on a styrofoam egg tray and start a dozen or two plants in that. The shells can be smashed gently to plant and feeds the plants a bit of extra calcium. Try 3-4 egg cartons with a packet or two of seed. Start small and dont let the fancy stuff overwhelm you. Best wishes on your indoor plant starts!

  • January 20, 2014 at 7:09 am

    This is a really good idea. I bought all the material last night and I’m ready to start building. However, I was told that it was a good idea to use two types of lights: cool white and warm. Apparently, one replaces daylight and the other one replaces the sun light. Any thoughts? Also, I was wondering if it’s better to put the seed-starting rack in front of a window or we could put it in the basement? I also bought a timer, so the lights will turn ON and OFF automatically.

    • January 20, 2014 at 8:01 am

      I have always used just the cool lights – and the plants turn out perfectly. As for the light in the window – we actually have done both – and I now prefer no simply because the plants tend to grow toward the sun sideways. Great idea on the timer! Hope that helps – Jim

    • January 20, 2014 at 4:00 pm


      At school I extracted, separated, and analyzed pigments from spinach leaves. These pigments, mainly chlorophyll a and chlorophyll b, absorb light mostly in the blue and red region of the visible light spectrum. Therefore plants mainly only use red and blue light to photosynthesize, or grow. Having a cool and warm light will theoretically helps your plants grow better, but isn’t going to be a factor in whether the plants survive or not.

  • January 8, 2014 at 2:20 pm

    What’s the approximate cost for something like this? I saw a seed started at an online shop and it was close to 700!! Lights included 150?

    • January 8, 2014 at 2:23 pm

      Lindsey – even if you purchased all of the 2×4’s, and then purchased the shop lights – it would be well under $100 total. Ours was even less because we built with some left over 2×4’s.


      • January 21, 2014 at 9:42 am

        Would recycled pallets work for this if they were deconstructed and reconstructed? Wondering if they would be able to hold the weight…

    • January 8, 2014 at 7:47 pm

      I just bought all of this at home depot for $140.00. The big expense is the lights $12 a piece (4 lights,8 bulbs) and the light bulbs (pack of 10 for 35ish). Thats not including a surge protector to plug in all 4 to one socket. Very happy with the design as it uses 99% of the wood you buy. Nice design. THANKS!

      • January 8, 2014 at 7:55 pm

        Thanks Easy E. The lights are the definitely the expensive side of it – although much less than those prices of the “grow” bulbs. Good luck growing this year and thanks for the note! Happy Gardening! Jim and Mary

  • July 18, 2013 at 12:27 am

    If you feel your plants need more heat, attach 4 mil plastic around the frame. we used a unit much like this for professional growing 🙂

  • April 30, 2013 at 11:47 pm

    I was curious, the 23″ marked down from the top… Is that the top of the shelf or the bottom on that 23″ mark?

    • May 1, 2013 at 6:21 am

      Hi Noah – The 23″ would be from the top of the shelf. We also built a second and made that one at 18″ and it was still plenty of room. We just like a lot of space to allow for plant growth. Jim

  • March 2, 2013 at 3:38 pm

    One nice thing about having my shelving unit in the dining room … I see them multiple times each day and tend them a lot. If I put them in the basement … out of sight, out of mind?? 😉

  • February 28, 2013 at 10:51 am

    Loved seeing your plans and hope to someday build something like this . Is there a lighting schedule to use or can you safely leave the lights on all the time . One concern I do have is here in Nova Scotia , we often get a sudden shift back to winter so plants that are already of size to transplant outside can,t even be set out in the day to start the hardening off process If I built tne unit and simply attached supports for the shelves ; then let the shelves sit on these , would that allow me to remove shelves which are above plants which are outgrowing the headspace they have ?

    • February 28, 2013 at 12:12 pm

      That actually sounds like a great idea to allow for that! As for the lighting schedule – we give our plants about 10 to 12 hours of light and it seems to work out great for them. For us we usually turn them on in the morning when we get up, and then later in the evening. Jim

      • March 2, 2013 at 10:31 pm

        Thanks for the response . We often have sudden weather changes in this area . and I was also pleased to see info added regarding the bulb size and type . Bev

    • March 2, 2013 at 3:36 pm

      It’s nice to have the lights on a timer too.

  • February 22, 2013 at 11:52 pm

    I plan to build this tomorrow, and I have similar 4′ electronic ballast lamps with 32W T8 gro-lux bulbs. Going to add heating pads since the sun room is not heated, power strip, light timer, and maybe wheels from a furniture dolly. Thanks for the plans!

    • February 24, 2013 at 10:56 pm

      Plans worked out great. I used 12 6′ 2x4s, and used a 23 1/2″ spacer when attaching the rectangles instead of a level. Thanks again!

  • February 17, 2013 at 1:55 pm

    FYI, started to make shelf. Bought my wood and made cuts. Started assembly and realized supply list is wrong. You need 8 of the 4′ pieces and 8 of the 2′ pieces, to make what you have pictured. Back to the lumber yard for more wood.


    • February 17, 2013 at 2:01 pm

      Thank you for bringing that to my attention Burt – just changed it on the post so it is correct. We had originally made it as a three shelf unit – and then added the fourth and I forgot to update that part! Sorry about the extra trip to the lumber yard – but hope the shelf turns out good for you! Jim

      • February 19, 2013 at 10:50 am

        Turned out great, thanks for the plan.

  • February 1, 2013 at 4:48 pm

    I was going to ask the same question as Cecilia so I’ll just wait for your reply to her . I also went to Lowes to get lights and came home empty handed and confused on which lights to get . The plant lights are expensive $80 . They had 25 watt 4ft shop lights and 40 watt 4ft shop lights both about the same price $12 to $15 a light , that is without the bulbs , but the bulbs are inexpensive. The plant lights come with the bulbs but to replace them are $10 to $12 a bulb .

    • February 1, 2013 at 4:58 pm

      Ronald – We use 40 watt cool lights in our system – and they work just fine. You certainly do not have to spend the money on the plant” lights – we have found that for growing vegetable and annual flowers from seed- they work great. The important thing is to keep the lights close to the plants – about 1 and 1/2 and 2 inches above the plants. Hope that helps!

    • February 2, 2013 at 10:29 am

      Here is what has worked for me (on a rack I built which I have used in my dining room) … regular shop lights. Each light gets one warm bulb and one cool bulb. I don’t remember the exact wattages(?), but if you google something like ‘plants shop lights’ you might find more specifics. My plants have done extremely well …I had giant tomato plants to put out last year.

  • January 26, 2013 at 5:23 pm

    Thank you for this article… one of those “why haven’t I thought of this” so I can stop eating at the counter for several months out of the year? lol! Do you use special tubes in those shop lights? In my initial walk around the hardware store I found that there is quite a variety to chose from these days, including “plant” lights, warm lights, cool lights, natural lights and day lights… they vary not only in the amount of light they output, but also in the light color spectrum… enough information to make me wonder, do you think it makes a difference which one is used?

    • February 1, 2013 at 5:02 pm

      Hi Ceclia – Sorry – I must have somehow missed this comment! We use the standard inexpensive 40 watt cool light bulbs and they work great! I am glad Ronald (below) asked his question today or I would have missed yours! Hope that helps and sorry I was late answering yours! Jim

      • March 2, 2013 at 3:27 pm

        Thanks for your reply. 🙂

  • January 14, 2013 at 8:57 pm

    The picture looks like you have 1 shop light on each shelve but you say to buy 4 .

    • January 14, 2013 at 9:00 pm

      Ronald – you have good eyes 🙂 We do use two lights on each level – but for the picture I had just put up the ones in front.

  • January 12, 2013 at 9:42 pm

    I built something similar and use it in the dining area. I’d like to move it to the basement, but fear it is a bit chilly down there for some seedlings …….. what is the temp in your basement?

    • January 12, 2013 at 9:48 pm

      Our basement stays between 60-70 degrees. With the lamps on for 10-12 hours per day, the seedlings should have more than enough heat.

  • January 12, 2013 at 11:57 am

    Could it be adjusted to allow for 3 shelves of flats? Or is there a required space from the top of the shop light to prevent overheating and fire hazards?

    • January 12, 2013 at 9:09 pm

      Absolutely – we just give ourselves more room with the 23″ on the two shelves. You could set them at around 18″ and have plenty of room to grow on all three shelves, including the bottom. The lights should be more than ok at that height as well – they by nature stay fairly cool.

      • January 13, 2013 at 5:49 am

        Thank you so much for your reply and the wonderful plans to follow! I see a project for me this weekend!!

  • January 9, 2013 at 2:21 pm

    This is such a great idea! I started seeds indoors last year, but as you mention they kind of take over their location. Something like this would be such a great idea! Thanks for sharing!

  • January 9, 2013 at 10:11 am

    I have an outdoor green house. Does your method depend on the heat coming from your home as well as the lights? I do have heating pads, if I did this in the greenhouse with the lights and heating pads would I be as successful? Thanks!

  • January 8, 2013 at 8:45 pm

    I love the creativity and no nonsense, practical approach… and frugal too! This could also be used year-round for certain herbs and plants. One question comes to mind (cannot be helped): Now that the dining room table is free, what other project will end up there? 🙂

    • January 12, 2013 at 9:25 pm

      Thanks so much Granny! I am sure we will fill the table with some sort of additional project 🙂

  • January 8, 2013 at 7:28 pm

    Thank you for these plans. Now I know how to get her a great way to start the garden inside. We have a very small space and this will help.

  • January 8, 2013 at 10:29 am

    I’ve been using a metal shelving unit for ages, but this looks so much better!
    I would love to have you join in several hops that I host or co-host! Starting today there is the seasonal Winter on the HomeAcre Hop at:

    This gives you a chance to bring out archived posts on winter subjects 🙂
    Tomorrow is Wildcrafting Wednesday, you’ll be able to find it from my homepage at:

    And on Thursday I host The HomeAcre Hop, another good place to bring out great posts that you would like to share again. I’d love to see posts on homesteading, farming, cooking, homeschooling…the list goes on 🙂 You can also find that on my homepage. Hope you can join us for all of these fun hops!

    • January 8, 2013 at 1:26 pm

      Thanks for sharing this on the Winter on the HomeAcre Hop!

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